The Unveiling

Poisson’s unveiling of his new project, Cult of Individuality X HVMAN: Ascension, showed off the streetwear designer’s range when it comes to everyday wear. Poisson’s own personal style comes through in a new way than with his collections with label Cult of Individuality, which he also showed at the event.

The party atmosphere—where viewers stood instead of sat for the show—opened itself up to the controlled randomness that is Poisson’s signature vision, something his fans cherish. Many attendees sported past collections of Poisson’s—studded denim jackets with large skull patches, crystal encrusted pants with knee rips, and painted leather. (Which almost turned the event into an archive presentation for the average spectator.) No two outfits looked the same, and it was absolutely refreshing.

To be clear, HVMAN isn’t replacing Cult, it’s adding onto it, that’s why he showed the two labels together. Poisson made it clear that HVMAN explores the simplicity of fashion and the beauty of basics—while Cult is all about showing off one’s own uniqueness through one of a kind, standout pieces.

Cult of Individuality usually utilizes the plainness of denim to add embellishments of all sorts (like embroidered tigers and rhinestones). HVMAN does not.

Poisson’s current pieces for Cult included less dark imagery and more color. A zebra print leather jacket and crystal embossed rainbow denim jackets; something new but still authentic to Poisson’s emphasis on originality.

Men all wore J75 shoes @j75shoes

HVMAN

Is full of understated sweat sets—a major trend that has found its roots in work from home pandemic fashion. Cotton crewnecks in subtle colors, while not a new invention, brings an overall softness to Poisson’s portfolio—a facet of his we haven’t seen before at Cult.

Though there were only a few, the women’s pieces garnered the most attention. A one armed, pin striped blazer dress, with gold detailing and Off-White-esque belt stole the show. And then a rainbow sequin maxi dress with an intricate bedazzled denim jacket continued the excitement. Where any of the menswear fell flat, the sequins and industrial touches to the womenswear ramped the energy right back up.

Poisson exhibited impressive creative restraint, showing off the extreme contrast between past collections to this one. It’s obvious Poisson is impressed with himself, too—not without thanking those that helped him get there and his musical inspirations that constantly inspire his work.

Invited tonight were long-time friends of Poisson: Skip and Saiyan Marley, grandsons of Bob Marley—one of Poisson’s major creative influences. Skip, a recording artist and collaborator of Poisson’s took a backseat at the show as a spectator. Saiyan made his modeling debut tonight.

Poisson sported one of his own, signature Cult designs. A leather jacket fitted perfectly to his physique—with silver paint and shoulder studs. His left arm read in the strobes lights: “Faith + Trust.” The bottom left of the jacket said “Resist Brutality” in Metallica font.

When Poisson came out to greet fans and friends, it felt like he had been there the whole time. The crowd cheered and the cameras flashed—Poisson looked very comfortable in the spotlight. Then, it was obvious where the show ended and the party began. Just what he had hoped for.

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Camilla brought the drama. Saluting to the free spirit, the brand went with everything over the top. With exaggerated embellishments—belts, necklaces, hats and all—the brand kept to their eclectic senses.

Time Trippin

One of their previous collections, Time Trippin, is fed not-so-obviously into their Miami Swim event. Time Trippin features numerous art deco, vintage inspirations—straight from the mind of a lustful Fitzgerald.

Particular looks seem pulled straight from the Jazz Age. Inspirations from this collection brought to Miami Swim week breathes a new, cinematic escape to Miami Fashion Week—a series of events that don’t normally take cards from hundreds of years ago.

Inspirations

While these art deco-inspos bring something jazzy and Gatsby to Miami this year, I also feel a hug from the 70s grab us at Camilla’s collection. Described on their site as “bursting with hypnotic color, psychedelic prints and mesmerizing embellishments that shine in the sun,” the brand showed us how much they can make their brand their own—without being too much. 

Too much? Is that the right word? Maybe this collection is too much, but that’s what makes it so eye-catching, so hard to look away from. Take this look: Coming Down From Cosmos, for instance. Is this swim? Is it something you can wear to dinner at a low-key resort? Probably not. But it’s fresh, vintage, hypnotic, psychedelic, mesmerizing.

While most brands opt for the sexiest, most show stopping, eye bulging micro bikinis to show at Miami Swim, Camilla went for movement above all. The show featured looks that ranged from sexy cut out one pieces to bikini tops paired with long, flowing skirts and cover ups.

Trends

The collection also featured plenty of your typical Miami pops of cheetah, leopard, zebra—really any wild animal that might remind you of that one over dressed aunt at every family function. I was particularly taken by Gothic Goddess, a printed, low cut one piece paired with an animal print head scarf, flowing effortlessly out of an understated baseball cap.

While Camilla went for a mix of the decades, the brand also went for a blend of embellishments at prints that almost become so muddled that you can’t really make each one out, and you notice something new every time.

About the Designer

At the Australian brand’s head is Camilla Franks. Franks travels far and wide to discover what her next aesthetic will be, inspired by cultures around the world. She says she, “immerses herself in worlds of the unknown, to create pieces that are treasured by collectors.”

If unique treasures are what Franks has set out to create, she has unutterably succeeded.

You can find more of Camilla’s Miami Swim over on their website. Cover photo by Arun Nevader.

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